28 Feb: Auroville celebrates Paul's birthday!

Just for fun, that is what I told Paul.

Today is Auroville's birthday. Once again, How Auspicious for us that we are here at this special time? Last Tuesday, 21 February, just two days after our arrival was the birthday of The Mother.

We set the alarm for 4am and never has it sounded so loud. But without much effort, we readied ourselves and just before five, we headed out into the dark night to join the many others making their way to the Matrimandir's outdoor amphitheater for the bonfire celebration.

I have always loved these early morning events, rising before dawn and collectively sitting in silence, calmly listening and watching the day break. It is magical.

Sincerity

sin·cer·i·ty
–noun, plural -ties

freedom from deceit, hypocrisy, or duplicity; probity in intention or in communicating; earnestness

—Synonyms
truth, candor, frankness. See honor

—Antonyms
duplicity

Sincerity is one of the 12 virtues of the Supreme Mother. The remaining virtues include: Humility, Gratitude, Perseverance, Aspiration, Receptivity, Progress, Courage, Goodness, Generosity, Equality and Peace.

Inside each of the twelve petals of the Matrimandir (The Mother's shrine), exists a meditation room that can be visited here. The past two mornings I have gone to the Sincerity petal room to sit after the inner chamber.

Map of India

Pondi, as the locals call it is in India's most southern state of Tamil Nadu on the Bay of Bengal. (Click map to see larger image)

Everyone should come!

We got our introduction into the inner chamber today...of the Mantrimandir.

The philosophy and symbolic meanings are remarkable.

Auroville needs you to help build the remaining 11 gardens surrounding this creation.

Everyone should come!

And Now...

Afsanah Guest House--one of the many well designed structures of Auroville. You are looking at the main building of Afsanah that serves as reception and a venue for dining. Just inside this corner of the building is my favorite table. In the morning, the sounds of nature are hypnotic--so wonderful, and the water garden view is unbeatable with the locals cycling by in the background or working in the garden.

In the beginning...

Image: From the book Turning Points: An inner story of the beginnings of Auroville

Well the dust that has clouded my head now for days is finally beginning to settle.

Weee...what a ride! I am always so surprised that Paul and I always seem to end up just where we need to be.

Before leaving on this trip, I had a strong desire to experience something deeper on a spiritual level. Since India was one of our destinations, we both applied for a week-long silent retreat at Gurudev Siddha Peeth in Ganeshpuri, but were denied an invitation. Oh well, and what a blessing that turned out to be. Otherwise we would never have ended up here at the center, in the eye of the hurricane at Auroville.

Initially, our plans were to visit Darjeeling, but because of the Gorkhaland struggle for independence from India's state of West Bengal and the strike that closed all northbound roads into the hills, the Gods sent us even further north, to Sikkim instead. We may as well have been in Tibet. After a week in Gangtok, our plans were to fly off to Singapore since I had no intention of a return to Calcutta, even if just through the airport. Paul booked tickets with SpiceJet, a low cost airline that routed us through Chennai. Once I heard this, I knew we had to journey further south into Tamil Nadu's Pondicherry, but more specifically Auroville.

Wow, what good fortune! Nothing less than miracles could have created this settlement. Situated literally in the Indian desert lies numerous small enclaves of architectural wonders that include guest houses, private homes, solar kitchens serving daily meals to hundreds of permanent residents and guests, schools, including an art school, an amphitheater for live performance, bakeries, retail outlets for handmade clothes, potteries, a visitor center and much more that we have yet to discover.

In addition, there are gardens practicing organic and sustainable farming. A very strong focus on conservation is practiced here--especially, water. I am learning to enjoy cool-water bucket baths and have a pretty good method for them. I realized that I can get by with only using about 4 gallons of water to bathe--less if I don't wash the long hair. Hot water is available to guests for a slightly higher room rate.

There is also a free clinic for residents and employees of Auroville. Guests and the local Tamil population pay nominal fees. On our second day here, I visited a doctor there in the building called Aspiration. After a short wait, I met with the doctor and her assistant. The consultation cost $4 and the prescribed Neem cream for an allergic reaction to the sun was about the same.

This is quite an interesting laboratory experiment that means to be inclusive of all cultures and populations and we have landed right in the thick of it. I feel so fortunate.

More to come as it unfolds and I have the energy to share.

February 23

Planning to attend a basic introduction to Integral yoga at Auroville. Yoga as a guide to purposeful living, (I think) not just Hatha yoga, the physical postures as most westerners understand the word.

Also, looks like we will be bounced out of here on March 2 since the present guest house we are in, designed in a gorgeous Japanese style is booked. I will post some pictures later today. We are off to Pondicherry this morning.

Another world, and we're in India now

The concepts of this environment are well, very idealistic. Paul has been doing a much better job with providing the history about each stop since our arrival in India in his blog. My brain seems to have gone berserk, which renders me unable just now to write. Please peruse Paul's musings.

We aim to sink in here at Auroville to discover it's mysteries which are unspeakable in this moment. We have been tooling around within the grounds on a two-person motorbike--me at the wheel and Paul navigating. Since most roads are red cinders it is necessary to keep a watchful eye on the ground and of course the cows. More as it unfolds.

Now South to Auroville

Tomorrow will be a long day of travel. First, we go by hired car four or five hours to Bagdogra airport to board our flight to Chennai. From there, we meet our driver to Auroville, the community founded by Mirra, the French devotee and partner of Sri Aurobindo, (later known as the Mother or Mother Mirra). Auroville is described as a utopian setting for sustainable living. It is just a few miles outside of Pondicherry in the state of Tamil Nadu.

On a clear day you can see forever

Our last day's outing was to the Tibetan Buddhist Enchey Monastery high above the city. If you look closely you will glimpse the snow covered peaks of Mount Kangchenjunga.

Gangtok, capital city in East Sikkim

(See more pictures of Gangtok)

Taking refuge at Nor Khill Hotel

After spending three very chilly nights at the Bamboo Grove Resort in a perfectly fine room with a view, we moved to the exquisitely appointed and tasteful Nor Khill Hotel. We chose Bamboo from Trip Advisor before leaving Siliguri, sight unseen. Had there been some heat in the room (the small space heater provided was not adequate) we probably would have stayed longer. The location was central, up a few steep flights of concrete steps (no handrails) just above Tibet road. The staff of cute young boys were attentive and all but the youngest even spoke English quite well. However, since we are not accustomed to inside temps hovering in the 40s, we both caught a chill and are nursing head colds. With a touch of guilt, we decided it was time to splurge on more comfortable dwellings and made our departure.

What a blessing! The Nor Khill is living in luxury--so civilised. Never has a hot bath felt so good!

With Good Luck + Strength we are off to Gangtok!

To our surprise the general manager of the bus station approached Paul yesterday and asked him where he wanted to go. Is that a miracle or what?

This morning Paul left the hotel about 7am to stand in the long line for the gents to buy bus tickets. I came a bit later to relieve him so he could walk around and suss out the situation. He encountered a European couple who had been in line since 5am. They had just got their tickets almost four hours later. Then she came to us and implored, go to the ladies line, go to the ladies, it's much shorter.

Apparently, they sell one gent ticket, then one lady ticket. Ok. Then Paul went to see the bus station general and he put our names down on the list to leave. Paul paid him 500 rupees. Tourist quota? Who knows? A little unfair to the locals, yes i suppose. Now we check out, go to the bus station and hope we get our tickets and on the bus. The buses are supposed to arrive at noon.

To Good Luck + Strength!

ps. the internet may be spotty in Sikkim so not sure when i will post next. ciao! --bonnie

Sister always said to have a Plan B

Originally I had hoped to visit Darjeeling, a former British hill station located in the foothills of the Himalyas for the cooler climate, the views and of course to drink some tea. On the second day in Calcutta, the morning newspaper arrived and the headline read "Khukuri slash reopens gash. Cop shots kills two, hills on fire." What!?

Apparently, there is a conflict between the government and a group of the population that wants independence from the state of West Bengal. A female government official was bayoneted. In retaliation, police opened fire killing two young protesters. Later a government tourist office was set fire in a town near Darjeeling. Now a strike exists and all three roads going north into the hills are closed. As an alternative, tourists are being directed to visit the state of Sikkim. The quagmire is that many many people are now trying to obtain bus tickets to the capital city Gangtok in Sikkim. In support of the strike, no private cars are driving there -- only government escorted buses are available. It's quite an interesting calamity. Tomorrow we will try to get tickets, to Sikkim, not Darjeeling. Paul plans to wake up early and join the line. We will see.

Patience

Above our bed on a pale blue wall, placed too high and a little bit crooked, a framed poster with the title Patience hangs--a pretty nature scene with a waterfall. Below the picture the quote reads...

Patience
To everything there is a season and
a time to every purpose under heaven.
Ecclesiates 3:1

How appropriate as we are now in a holding pattern here in the crossroads town of Siliguri in the state of West Bengal, India.

Our first meal in a small eatery. I had veg-aloo (potato) with rice and a small bowl of yellow lentil dahl. The workers were friendly and eager to please, especially the young boy.

Darjeeling Mail

On our first afternoon in Calcutta (tues feb 9) we were lucky enough to obtain tourist quota tickets on the Darjeeling Mail overnight train.

The following day, after a full day with our delightful guide Shanti, a 75-year-old retired history teacher who came highly recommended in a Frommer's travel guide, we packed up our gear once more and headed to Calcutta's Sealdah station to board the train for the 10pm departure.

Climbing into the upper bunks of a four-person berth in the AC Two class car we were delighted to be on our way but thoroughly saturated from the day's activities. We had been shuttled around the sites that Shanti felt were relevant via a hired taxi that he bamboozled into the 5-hour drive as we stood out of site. Shanti warned that if the driver saw our white skin, it would certainly up the ante of the afternoon.

The next morning, (feb 10) sometime between 8 and 9am we arrived in New Jalpaiguri. After pausing for a few minutes to take in the sites (sometimes stepping out into what is India is overwhelming and takes some time to process) we selected and negotiated or tried to negotiate the cost of our transport to the Hotel Manila and headed for Siliguri, the town where we now are hoping to secure transport to Sikkim, our plan B.

Literally on the streets

The first night the Bangladeshis sleep in the train station. The next night they sleep on the street. The third day they set up a business.

The food looks good but unfortunately too risky as the dishes are washed right next to the gutter that many folks use as the toliet.

Oh Calcutta!

Tuesday, February 8.

First impressions...never have I seen Anything like this!

This will take some time to acclimate to. However, I don't think I ever could...the noise, the squalor, the stench, the stares.

It's time to get out of this place!

Elephant Kisses

The highlight of Thailand!

On our last day we visited Elephant Nature Park, a truly remarkable sanctuary for elephants rescued from mostly abusive situations like forced labor, unknowing tourist supported market begging and trekking camps. We got to feed and bathe them several times. Elephants only sleep 4 hours each day and literally eat tons of fresh fruit and veggies. Each has a personal minder or mahout.

What an operation!

In this second photo the woman on the ground below is the park's founder, Lek. A small Thai woman with a big heart for elephants and other animals. She taught this elephant to give kisses--a little scary for the receivers. She has also rescued over 60 dogs from Chiangmai's street markets and the surrounding areas. In addition, the Elephant Park is home to roughly 20 water buffalo, one bull and one pony.

I will post more on this soon. What an amazing day! Paul is out like a light now. Can't believe he is finally tired. Woo-who! Mission accomplished!

Part Two: West Bengal

It is difficult to believe that in just a few days this trip will continue and has the potential to become even more dramatic, intense and full of surprises with extremes in sights, sounds, tastes and smells. On February 7, we will depart Chiangmai in northern Thailand for western India--next stop Calcutta. Since I am a highly sensitive being, much of the time during this trip I have found myself struggling within to find balance. It is interesting and unsettling to feel so groundless apparently from not having constancy on a daily basis, any real responsibilities or a known purpose. It seems very strange.

During quiet moments, while practicing some light yoga, I reconnect with inner emotions. Later, I come into a state of calm while I meditate and listen to the steady drone of the tamboura. I follow my breath and try to understand and accept my travel related experiences--the changing world, cultural differences, food, food illness, customs and even my sometimes opposing differences and pace of my partner.

For Good Luck and Strength

In the dragon's mouth for good luck and strength since I was down for the count at the week's beginning after consuming something that wreaked havoc in my belly.

After two days I managed to go on a guided bike tour just south of the old gated city. We are now in Thailand's northern city, Chiangmai. First, we stopped at a Chinese buddhist temple, where a small group of nuns live. We learned about the lady buddha Guan Yin and walked inside the dragon.

Interestingly, I recently hung a gorgeous tapestry of her in our bedroom that I have had lying around since my Esalen training in Ubud. I had forgotten her name and her story.

You can find out more at this link:
www.holymtn.com/gods/kuanyin.htm