This map gives an indication of where we are now--south of Bangkok on an island in the Gulf of Thailand. If you click on the map image, an interactive Google map will load that you can enlarge to view the three small islands. We are now on Koh Phangan, the middle island in a beach community on the north eastern shore.
Layers of beauty abound. Discovering how to do nothing--sometimes challenging for my western mind. This life of leisure is something that just takes time. Today I got up around 9, took a cold shower, did some yoga and was beginning to meditate when Paul announced he was hungry. What's new, right? Ok, it was almost 11:30, guess I can't argue with that--it was lunch time. We hiked up the deserted 2-lane highway walking on the shady side of the road. Once we hit the small town, we found a roadside eatery where mom (someone's mom) was roasting chicken wings (one of our favs). The smell always captures us. Paul asked about fresh coconuts to drink and she pointed him down the street. Another score! Not wanting to be a western nuisance, I quickly ordered up a cold Chang. Nothing like a beer first thing in the morning. Why not? It's like water, anyway. We ordered up a bowl of noodle soup, some grilled chicken, and Som Tam, the spicy papaya salad that is super tasty. So far, it's been a lovely, breezy day.
On Thong Nai Pan Yai, on the remote north eastern coast of Koh Phangan (pronounced pan gan).
One Sunday. I decided to go for my first Thai massage. The space itself was inviting with its high ceilings, large open windows and rows of mats, nicely appointed with clean white sheets and pillows all layed on a beautiful dark wooden floor. My initial perception was that Thai massage was rough, so from the beginning, I pointed to the scars from my broken ankle and said, "gentle." She smiled and understood. Her hands were soft and the compressions were slow and rhythmic; just what i like. She discovered the obvious places in my body where I held tension and other places that I didn't even realize I needed touched. She had some really good moves and stretches that opened me. I loved the way she moved my muscles in opposing directions around the bone. It felt wonderful. At only 300 baht for one hour, I saw Maya three times while on Koh Tao until we moved on to our current home in Koh Phangan.
It's about 7am on the Isle of Tao. Mostly, it is quiet at this time of day except for the sounds of nature which are very much alive. Chirping crickets lay the first layer of sound. In the distance, there's the clipping of jungle foilage by an unseen gardener. A rooster crows and I begin to here the vroom of a lone motorbike. Now the unusually mysterious and quick repetitive, bloop, bloop, bloop of some unknown jungle creature--possibly a bird. There are other conversations in the trees that I don't recognize and have no words to describe. Mornings are my favorite time. The air, even though still heavy with the morning dew is cooler. The sun is just beginning to rise and only seen from the other side of the island. The temperatures on average are in the high 80s with what feels like 100% humidity.
On the first morning in Bangkok, Paul thought we should shift rooms to escape the repetitive sound of a sump pump. It was a good call. I liked the second room better because it had more windows and a more open feel. As I was making pretty in the room (you know me), I elbowed the screen of my new Kobo ebook reader. Oops! This event for some reason was more of a disaster for Paul than for me. Nevertheless, a Big Drag. That was three months of interesting beach/travel reading material out the window. However, it did give Paul a mission--come Hell or high water, the Kobo must be replaced. I actually thought it would be good, give him something to do, but later I had some regrets. Be forewarned, Paul is not a man to be reckoned with when he is on a mission.
The Japanese would probably not approve. (smiley face)
The Good--cheap, cheap, cheap. Did I say cheap? --Spicy and tasty street food. Twice we had breakfast here. A deliciously sweet Thai iced coffee cost me 20 Thai bhat, that's about 70 cents. The exchange rate is about 28 or 30 baht to the dollar. A plate of spicy ginger chicken and a second helping of sauteed tofu with mixed vegetables on rice was 60 baht. The mystery... How does this food not spoil after being out in warm weather ALL DAY LONG!? Good thing I got those hepatitis jabs.
This is the courtyard of Shambara Hostel where we stayed 3 nights. Once a traditional Thai home, it has high ceilings and is constructed mostly of dark wood. It rents 6 upstairs rooms with shared showers to guests. Located down an alley, it is just steps to the popular Khao San Road.
Small interesting alley ways to wander aimlessly down. The weather is surprisingly, not too hot. Still waiting to see my first glimpse of a big, beautiful and blue body of water. Streets are just like a city and in need of a good rain. Saw a rat scurry into a hole around the twisted roots of a tree trunk. Saw another smaller one dead being tossed around playfully by a very proud cat. I then realized why so many scroungy cats abound. Yikes!
